Overlooking Morogoro

Back in Morogoro and I have moved in with Augustin, our former safari guide. He has given me a room in his house overlooking Morogoro. It has a great view and the constant breeze is welcomed. Definitely thankful to have a place to stay.

Over the holidays, I will meet up with Desmond, YCI staff from Zanzibar, and we will head down to Zambia and Malawi. Lindsey has work to finish, but she will meet us in Lusaka before we make our way to Victoria Falls.

But for right now being back in Morogoro is great. I little down time before some more dreaded bus trips.

Up and Up

I finally had the chance to climb to the top of the Uluguru Mountains. Every day I've been looking up wondering what the view is like from there.

Close to the beginning of the project, we all attempted to hike up to an abandoned weekend retreat in the Uluguru Mountains known as Morningside. Morningside lies halfway from the top at 1000m metres. We made it close, but ran out of water forcing us to turn around. We were all tired and headed back down to town.

This time, I was joined by Katherine, who was a volunteer with YCI in Zanzibar, her boyfriend Joel, Habibu, Sebi and Frankie. Habibu and Frankie both help out at the Kilakala Youth Centre. Both have been to the top before and could guide us safely.

We met up just outside town at 0700 with plenty of water, fruits and bread to keep us going throughout the day. I wasn't going to risk my chance getting to the top. The day was overcast and not as hot as usual.

The beginning of the hike takes you through farmland and small villages. Most of the farmland, which once was dense forest, are crops of maize, cassava and beans. Following the path up through the villages you notice how red the soil is. Over time, the soil has eroded exposing tree roots and making some parts of the trail tricky to navigate. That said, we were continually passed by local villagers wearing flip-flops carrying water or other heavy goods on their heads.

Further up, the crops change to bananas, peas, beans, cabbage and onions. The mountainside has been clear cut of trees and cut into a large set of stairs allowing for cultivation. More than two-thirds of the mountain's forest have been replaced with farmland.

We reached Morningside after 4 hours. The last part of the trail up to Morningside had many beautiful flowers and with it butterflies. The view back through the mountains overlooking Morogoro is amazing. We had lunch here and bought some carrots and a "permit" to climb the mountain.

Katherine, Joel and Sebi headed back down while the rest of us would trek on to the top of Bondwe Peak. After leaving Morningside, we took a steep path through more farmland using all four limbs before reaching an abandoned guard post an hour later. We signed our names on the wall inside along with those of previous visitors. Just past the guard post is where the real forest begins. Along both slopes, eucalyptus trees are planted to mark the edge of the forest reserve. However, the demand for farmland, fuel wood and building materials means that the boundaries are often ignored.

Once in the forest, I imagined I was in the Jungle Book. Huge trees, thick bush and ferns everywhere. Butterflies fluttering past me, monkeys chatting and birds calling with songs made it surreal. The hike was not easy by any means, but walking through this enchanted wilderness was breathtaking.

And even in such a beautiful place, with limited means of access, signs of humans are easily found. Garbage, especially plastic bottles, are left on the ground and not packed out. Garbage in town is handled in much the same way. Just toss it. Even though I made it a point to pick up what I could, Habibu didn't think twice about chucking his plastic waste into the forest. I tried to question him and encourage him to pack it out, but when it happened again I gave up.

Nearing the top and three hours later, the path widens and opens up to a beautiful vista at the peak, Bondwe peak. On top, you can see everything. Even though it was overcast, we could still see far enough to enjoy our accomplishment. We watched clouds pass us as they pushed their way over the mountain.

Bondwe peak is home to a communication tower feeding signals for television, radio and telephone. Two staff were present and showed us around the inside of the control room. Apparently they stay for one week and are then relieved by two new staff who also have to trek up the mountain.

We took a rest and I changed by shirt. It was soaked. It could have been pulled straight out of the wash. I wrung out my shirt and I swear, no joke, no exaggeration, I was able to wring out enough sweat to fill a pint glass half full.

For a snack, banana spread on bread and then a nap.

After a half hour on top we headed back down. First out of the forest and then back down through farmland and into town. My legs were tired and I have never been so excited for rice and beans.

Chamwino Gets a New Coat

This morning Carla, Lindsey, Lonny and I headed to Chamwino to continue our programming we started back in October. Lonny ran his computer classes with the help of Kilakala local Barisa which had his sign up sheet filled within minutes, while Carla and I held an English class in the beautiful new school, fresh paint and all.

This is going to be a great asset to the next phase of volunteers, the community and the local youth.

Tick Tock

These past few days have been busy with composing final reports and making sure to get enough time in with everyone we met before heading back home. The past 8 weeks have been the fastest of my life. In the time those weeks have flashed by I made new friends, traveled to beautiful places and learned more about myself and the world around me.

Last minute projects are finally coming together and I hope to have them finished before I leave. Last week Lonny and I finished writing CVs in our boys club and rumour has it that one member already has a job offer. Carla and I run an English class out of the youth centre and this phase saw 4 new women join. They have shown up regularly over the past month showing their commitment to learn. That in turn motivates us to provide the most practical and beneficial lessons with the intention of bringing them back class after class. Consistent attendance can measure success.

Lonny and I live with a generous and loving host family. We wanted to thank them and show them that their hospitality was greatly appreciated. We picked up some school books for Ash and Robert and made a photo collage for the family that is now hanging in the living room. No doubt I will miss them.

Not only am I leaving my friends in Tanzania, but also my colleagues with whom I've made life-long friendships with. They have given me support, provided moments of uncontrollable laughter and challenged me to be who I am. They will be the only ones who can truly appreciate these stories and tie them to a moment in their life.

I do miss home and all the amenities that come with it. Using a bucket to shower is fine, its the Wiener Schnitzel and potato salad I miss the most.

Sumaye Secondary School Performance

Today we gave a presentation at Sumaye Secondary School with the help of the drama group and Marko.

The drama group preformed short comedies with HIV/AIDS messages that were well received by the youth.

Other activities included "Crossing the Bridge", "True and False", "Women and HIV", "HIV Spread and Condom Use" and a question and answer period.

The presentation lasted 2 hours and provided excellent information for the 250 youth.

A Sign?

The last two days have been ones of shock.

Yesterday I was doing some work on a laptop in my room. We have a power bar in the room that allows for all plug configurations because the laptop has a North American plug. Plugs here are the same as the UK. I unpacked the laptop and the power adaptor for the laptop. While the adaptor wasn't connected to the laptop I plugged it into the live power bar. Then I grabbed the other end that plugs into the laptop.

ZZZZZZZZZZAP!!! "WOAH!"

My right arm flew into the air and I couldn't control it. My entire right side from my shoulders to my hips tingled with a surge of electricity. Definitely a new experience.

I finished my work on the laptop and closed the computer.

ZZZZZZZZZZAP!!! "Wwwhat the hell!"

Again. This time with less surprise, but with just as much tingling.

Later that day I came home during the hottest part of the day to take nap. It gets warm under a tin roof so I decided to turn on the fan. The fan has a European plug. It is also plugged into the power bar. This time no shock.

A few minutes later I can smell smoke and look at the clock. It's around lunch time and I figured it was Mama cooking lunch. This time it wasn't food smoking. I turned to look at the fan. The fan had overheated and burst into flames. I grabbed the fan, pulled out the plug and run it outside. Walking back to the room I can see a haze of smoke.

What a day. Bad luck or was my life in jeopardy?

I Have a Name

Walking into town on most if not every day will spark conversation.

The children in the Kilakala, or at least near the house where I live, will greet me by name and ask where I am going. Some will greet me with "Shikamoo", a greeting out of respect, and I will answer "Marahaba", meaning "I thank you for your respect." However, as soon as I walk out any further things change.

People are always outside on their porches or in front of their houses making mats, selling vegetables or charcoal. The older children attending classes at school, but the younger kids are staring at me walking past them. And the greetings I or any other volunteer get isn't "Shikamoo", but "Mzungu!", "White Person!". I don't believe it be hurtful or disrespectful, but just a word that has been used to describe foreigners. So I take it in stride with a smile. And another smile and another because this doesn't just happen once or twice, but everyday. So you can imagine me walking down the same street passing those same four, five and six-year-olds children and getting bombarded with "Mzungu!" Things changed today. The first "Mzungu!" I hear walking into town came from the same kids I saw yesterday. So I walk over to their porch where the kids are sitting along with a few Mamas and maybe a Bibi (grandmother), and I greet the elders, "Shikamoo."

Then I look into the little children's eyes and ask, "Jina lako nani?", "What is your name?"

"Nema," said the little girl.

"Mimi, naitwa Quinten. Sawa?" "Me, my name is Quinten. OK?"

No Response. So I repeat my name hoping they get the point and then ask how things are, "Mambo vipi?" To which all the kids respond, "Poa!", "Cool". Two down, and many more to go.

I leave that house and turn down the road towards the market.

"Mzungu!" Damn it!

The main road into town is paved and busy with cars, trucks, bicycles and motorcycles of which half probably don't have a driver's license and those that do have one need more practice behind the wheel. Instead I take the back road into town.

This quieter road passes by an old cemetery marked with wooden crosses, each boxed in with a rectangular cement border. Next to the cemetery is the local soccer field. The posts are coconut tree trunks and the crossbars made of bamboo, nailed to each wooden post.

Leaving the soccer field behind, I cross a cement bridge over a small river and into the Kilakala market. There are shops selling bananas, coconuts, potatoes and other vegetables. Shops with fried whole fish, shops with hanging chunks of meat in the doorway and even a small music shop with CDs. There are bars to sit and have a cold beer or soda.

Even here the soft drink giants have a market. Coco-Cola and Pepsi ads are everywhere. Where ever a free space is available I only see Tanzanian Telecom ads. These are also the only ads on TV and I have quickly memorized their tag lines.

"Zain. A Wonderful World."
"Vodacom. Pajoma Daima."
"Tigo. Express Yourself!"

Still walking along the dirt road, I pass through the market and behind the local prison. Prisoners in orange jumpsuits are busy sweeping the earth and gathering garbage under the "watchful eye" of the guards busy playing a game of guards. A fence with holes separates inmates from the "Mzungu."

Still further I pass by a school for the hearing impaired. I usually see them playing soccer in the adjacent field in the afternoon and was invited to join in a game yesterday.

Past the school for the hearing impaired is a primary government school. During the morning many people sell candies, nuts and home-made freezies along this road. It shouldn't be surprising that school children in their blue and white school uniforms form swarms around the vendors like bees around a hive.

Hoping that all the kids are distracted, I take my chance walking through the swarm to get to town. Everything goes smoothly.

"Good morning."

"Good morning," I reply.

No matter what time of day, its always "Good morning." Must come from greeting the teacher at school. What follows is the only other English they know, "How are you?" Now imagine hundreds of school children repeatedly asking how I'm doing. By the time the last kid asks me I'm not doing so well anymore. The same happens back in Kilakala. Children using the only English they know.

After the sea of blue and white I walk past not one, but two coffin makers. Eerie to say the least. Although better here than right next to the cemetery.

Before town is the Tanzanian Ministry of Finance and the courthouse.

I make it into town in under 30 minutes and the mountains are always a beautiful backdrop.

Let's hope that the walk back home is just as exciting! Even though the anti-malarial "Apo-Mefloquine" is providing enough excitement in my dreams already.

A look into Life at "Home"

Yanga Vs Morogoro Police

This Saturday we watched a local soccer game at Jamhuri Stadium. The match featured one of the top teams in Tanzania, Yanga, from Dar Es Salaam.

Entrance was 3,000Tsh and it was busy. Their were vendors selling sugar cane, ice cream and of course, cold water.

Some calls were questionable, but with so many police around with batons, no one put up too much of a fight. The match ended 0-0.

Ushujaa kwa Uhai

This week we held our first "Ushujaa kwa Uhai" in Chamwino. Our audience was estimated at 500. Definitley a huge turnout.We set up a tent and hired a local DJ and invited local youth to show off their talent. Local artists were showcased to kick off afternoon. Some performances included the local youth singing, dancing and rapping.The local Morogoro school's Girls' Club was invited to preform a traditional dance with drummers.

The Spin Off

Baba and I having a soccer ball spin off.

New Program in Chamwino

Youth Challenge International partners with local organizations with similar missions and values. In Morogoro we work together with Faraja Trust Fund. Faraja is resposible for building the community centres and schools where our programs take place.

This month we started a new program in Chamwino. Chamwino is in the outskirts of town and sometimes referred to as the "slums". The school is still under construction, but there are four walls and a roof, and the locals are excited to start participating. They are so excited that we started programming sooner than expected. Our first classes started 3 weeks ago and we have been returning every week. We are now up to 2 days per week. The classes include basic computer skills, english lessons, HIV/AIDS information, condom demonstrations, gender issues and much more. So far the turnout has been overwhelming and the ratio of female to male participants better than expected.

The school is slowly nearing completion. Knowing that we have this much interest even without a finished school is very exciting.

We will be hosting the first "Ushujaa kwa Uhai" (Courage for Life) talent night in Chamwino this Friday, October 31st with or without pumpkins.

Chapati, Mandazi and Rice!

Baba and Mama invited the girls over for dinner today. It was going to be a feast. Lonny and I said we would help out with the groceries and the cooking.

Lonny and Baba spent that morning in town at the market. They picked up flour, oil, tomatoes, cucumber, onions, peas, beans, rice, pineapple, coconut, meat, spinach, and bananas.

I spent the morning in the kitchen making mandazi. Mandazi is a fried pastry similar to donuts. Mama uses coconut as her special ingredient. So, first things first...crack open the coconut. A few hard whacks with a metal rod and it cracks. I get to try the coconut milk. I scrap out the coconut meat with a crazy contraption that has a serrated blade at one end. Definitely hard, manual labour. So three coconuts later and we start making the dough; flour, yeast and rinsed coconut. The water we rinsed the coconut with was also added. We then made small balls with the dough and fried them in hot oil.

Lonny and Baba made Cinnamon Buns. Yup!

We spent most of the day cooking for dinner making sure the ladies had the best of the best. First course was rice, beans, beef stew and peas with a tomato, cucumber and onion salad. Second was Mandazi, Cinnamon Buns and Chapati served with hot Chai. Third was sweet pineapple.

Even though the power has been out for about 3 days we had an awesome candlelit dinner!

Also, the rain has arrived. Mud and the hazardous walk without falling is a daily routine now. At least it has cooled down with the clouds hiding the sun.

A Smile Speaks Louder than Words

Some of our work involves Home Based Care (HBC) for people living with HIV. We visit with local families and provide them with some basic essentials.

Today, HBC hosted a play day for all the families to enjoy. There were over 100 people, including young and old. Julia and Lonny prepared most of the activities that day which included colouring books, ring toss, bowling and the infamous rain game. They also enjoyed some rice, beans and bananas. Philip and Florian, two German volunteers with Faraja even had the kids making their own crowns. At the end of the day HBC handed out soap, cooking oil, rice and flour along with 2,000Tsh for each family.

The entire day was very heartwarming even though at times it was hard to hold back tears. Watching these children having fun and smiling is what this is all about.

Life in Morogoro

So what is it that I do here? Let me tell you.

Most of my time is spent at the local youth centre in an area of Morogoro called Kilakala. The youth centre has a few tiny rooms and a covered concrete slab in the back. Youth come here during the day to hang out. Later in the day we run our programs ranging from English, Youth Leadership, Debates, HIV/AIDS, etc.

This past Friday, we hosted a talent night known as "Ushujaa kwa Uhai." We try to encourage youth to preform songs, dances and rap. Between the acts we incorporate messages revolving HIV/AIDS myths or gender issues.Outside of programming, life is very different. Meals, for example, are served much later than back home. Lunch, chakula cha mchana, is served around 1400 and dinner, chakula cha jioni, around 2100. However, time is also up for debate. There is no structure to punctuality in Tanzania. A program that is scheduled to start at noon may not start until half past. Time is very fluid. That said, the day starts at "Hour 1", or 0700. The Swahili clock start at sunrise, runs 12 hours and then ends at sunset. So 1200 noon in Swahili is actually "Hour 6". It can get very confusing quickly.

So after dinner, people mingle for a bit and then go to bed. Music might still be playing or the TV still running, but just something you have to get used to. Its always noisy. Then in the morning around 0600 the music starts up again and good luck trying to sleep.