Skeletons

During our time in Livingstone we met a Canadian engineer working in Johannesburg. He was on vacation from Jo'burg and was heading to Namibia. He offered a ride and we gladly accepted. No more buses for now.

We left Livingstone with Scott heading to Namibia. We passed up through the Caprivi strip, lush and green. and a couple monkeys. We drove for a few hours up until dusk. Throughout the park they were treating prevent foot and mouth disease. We had to get out of the car as the sprayed around it and had us step onto to a disinfecting mat.

Now we needed to find a place to stay. Looking through the lonely planet we found a safari camp that was just off the main road and outside the park. Scott's little 2-wheel drive Peugot did well through the sandy terrain and we made it to Ngepi Lodge. We reserved a deck tent for N$225. The lodge is on the banks of the Kwando River with resident Hippos.

The next day we were off again just trying to get as far into Namibia as possible. Leaving the camp in the morning proved trickier than expected as the little Peugeot almost drowned itself in a puddle. Just an inch more and the water would have spilt over the floor of the car. With the help of some local kids and a 4x4 with tow rope, we managed to pull out the sinking car.

Soon after we were back on the road heading into Namibia. After 6 hours we were in a small town called Outjo. We check into a lovely Bed & Breakfast, Dan & Mari. The owner a friendly local and the rooms immaculate. We grilled up some wieners for dinner and finished a bottle of gin before gently hitting the mattress.

Next morning we were treated to a tasty breakfast, bacon, eggs and cereal. Its been a while.

Now we were headed to the Skeleton Coast near Torra Bay on the South Atlantic. I can almost see the Canadian shore on the other side. The landscape was slowly changing from green bush to rock sandstone, to simply sand. Two ostriches were kind enough to say hello. The drive took us right to the coast and salt roads and the little Peugeot made it all the way. No 4x4 needed. Amazing to see so much land with nothing on it. Just bare.

In Swakopmund we are staying at a small backpackers in hopes of finding a place for New Years Eve. Everything seems to be fully booked.

A New Swinging Adventure

Today was one to keep my heart pounding. Lindsey and I were off for some adrenaline and Des went for a walking safari through the park.

We were picked up at the hostel at 0830 and stopped at another hotel to pick up some other adrenaline junkies. That said, two were under 14 years old. Shit. If they can do it so can I.

What the full day entailed is this; rappelling, abseiling, zip-lining and a gorge swing. All of this take place in a gorge 146m wide and 96m metres deep. We arrived on site and checked out the size of the gorge. We were promptly introduced to the Gorge Swing. The other clients we picked up only opted for the Gorge Swing so Linds and I watched as the each took turns jumping of the platform. If they can do it so can I. They're little kids.

First we rappelled down the side of the gorge. Pretty cook, but not too scary. Now at the bottom of the gorge we had the thrill of walking all the way back up. Only about 15 minutes, but I was sweating buckets. At the top again we took the zip line. We geared up and clipped in. After a running start we flew, one by one, across the gorge. Just like Superman.

Gorge Swing 101.
When swinging across the gorge keep your arms tucked in and of course, screaming comes naturally. 53 metres of free fall and then a giant swing into the open gorge. First forwards, just like taking a big step. And then a second time backwards, rolling into the void.

Livingstone and Victoria Falls

Finally after five nights in Lusaka Des and I met Lindsey at the bus station. Thankfully, Linds was willing to keep on trucking to Livingstone after just traveling for 2 days straight. We picked up our bus tickets for 90000KW and left Lusaka for our 7 hour journey to Livingstone.

Zambia seems so different. A prayer on the bus and even cold beverages. Most roads were good and the ride went well. Even with a minor break down.

In Livingstone we checked into Jollyboys backpackers hostel. It has a private rooms, dorms, bar and swimming pool. Great place with great people.

The next day we went to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park to take in the natural wonder Victoria Falls. We walked through the park and down into gorges taking in the sights. There is so much mist and no way of staying dry. Even now it has rained every day, seven days straight. The rainy season is well underway. During the dry season the river dries out and only the main falls are flowing over the edge.

Later in the afternoon we booked a walking trek over the falls to Livingstone Island. The trek entailed wailing over the top of the falls for a few hundred metres, over stones and through fast flowing water. Our group formed a chained as not to get swept over the falls. Unbelievable how close we managed to come to the edge of the falls. We even had the chance to sit on the edge with our legs dangling over. Crazy!

It took close to an hour to reach the island. Just past the island is a small natural pool directly on the edge of the falls. If you know what an infinity pool is, imagine one where the edge drops over one hundred metres. After swimming over the top of the falls we jumped into the pool and held onto the ledge. The water was strong and my feet were being pulled up by the current. Definitely a rush. Just feet from death.

After swimming back to the island we enjoyed some cold beers and began our chain walk back to base. If you can see my shoes imagine walking barefoot over rock. They still sting!

Nothing to See Here

A short entry. There is nothing to see in Lusaka. We are waiting for Lindsey to meet us here on Sunday so we can go to Victoria Falls.

Everyone here speaks good English making it easy to get around. There are two shopping malls and otherwise nothing interesting except getting used to the inflated currency.

Which Way to the Border?

I met up with Desmond in Morogoro and we, along with Lindsey, decided to head down to Victoria Falls and then into Malawi for the holidays.

We left at 0900 and caught the bus heading to Mbeya. Mind you the bus was to leave at 0800 and the ride was long and fairly unpleasant. It took us 9 hours to cover the distance, but the landscape was spectacular. The road took us up through mountains and green forests, some coniferous. Something similar to what you could find in Canada. But it rained in the bus again. Looks like we are heading into the rainy season.

Once in Mbeya we played everything by ear as we had no Lonely Planet to inform us of the best places to stay and on how to get to Lusaka, Zambia. My Tanzanian Visa was due to expire the next day meaning I had to leave the country. We checked out the bus station for information and discovered that the trek to Lusaka was no easy feat. Only one company goes to Lusaka and it leaves at 1600 from Mbeya for 60000Tsh. The bus has to spend 24 hours at the border of Zambia, an hour away from Mbeya, before it can get clearance to enter the country. That means sleeping on the bus. At 1600 the next day it leaves the border and arrives early the next morning in Lusaka. If my math is right, that would be a 40+ hour trip. We said we would be back in the morning after we talked it over. After some local Mishikaki, grilled skewered meat, we found a hotel and spent the night.

After a hot shower, WOOHOO!, we headed back to the bus station to figure out a way to get to Lusaka. The bus employees we spoke with in the morning still didn't have anything better to offer so we inquired about walking across the border. We talked about hiring a car or finding an alternate way to get to the border. Our taxi driver from the hotel offered us a ride for 100,000Tsh! Am I white or what? Desmond went out and asked around. With brilliance, and I guess common sense as locals would never take a 60000Tsh bus, he found a local minibus that would take us to the border for 4000Tsh. It would take two hours to reach the border instead of one, but we were saving considerably. We left the bus station with smiles having won the battle.

In the minibus, now at 1000 in the morning, we told the locals our story of being offered a 100000Tsh ride to the border and we joined in a round of laughs.

Two hours later at the border we had little trouble crossing, got our $50 visas and crossed into Zambia. Right away we found a bus going to Zambia for 150000 Zambian Kwacha. The current exchange is around US$1 to KW5000. We offered 40000Tsh (a little high as we had no other currency) and got two seats on the bus. Although we arrived in Zambia at around 1200 the bus was scheduled to leave at 1600. We grabbed some food and walked around the small border town proud of ourselves for having saved time and money!

At 1600 the bus was still there and we were sitting in our seats waiting to leave. 1630. 1700. 1730. I should be getting used to this...1800. 1830. 1900. 1930. Finally at 2000 we were off! However, we noticed more safety regulations and anti-corruption posters in Zambia than in Tanzania. The bus conductor even gave a short welcoming over the PA on the bus and had someone say a short prayer. I was hoping the roads were better in Zambia, but the need for a prayer may signal otherwise.

And we were off. And the roads were great. And the bus wasn't going to fast. Des and I shared a row of three seats with another Tanzanian. It was cramped and uncomfortable. However, a free seat opened up and Des decided to move.

We arrived in Lusaka at 1030 alive, hungry and in one piece. No where to stay. It was off to a bookstore for a Lonely Planet guide.

Overlooking Morogoro

Back in Morogoro and I have moved in with Augustin, our former safari guide. He has given me a room in his house overlooking Morogoro. It has a great view and the constant breeze is welcomed. Definitely thankful to have a place to stay.

Over the holidays, I will meet up with Desmond, YCI staff from Zanzibar, and we will head down to Zambia and Malawi. Lindsey has work to finish, but she will meet us in Lusaka before we make our way to Victoria Falls.

But for right now being back in Morogoro is great. I little down time before some more dreaded bus trips.

I Wish I Could Fly

Crossing back into Tanzania, we walked across border from Rwanda and took a taxi to the next village where we decided to stay overnight. Definitely interesting. We stayed in a small guest house for 3500Tsh. We ate rice and beans.

We purchased our bus tickets to Mwanza that evening. The bus was leaving at 600 so we made it a plan to head to bed early. Not that going to bed early was hard now. It was almost like a routine. 2100 was feeling like midnight.

That morning we waited in the cold for the bus to arrive. The "sales agent" who sold us the tickets was there too. When the bus came, it was full. No seats. Boy were we happy and did that guy ever get an earful.

It would be a long journey and every bus ride is a gamble with death. This trip was the deadliest of all. I thought I was going to die. No word of a lie. Bumps, rain pouring in the window, swerving. It was all in front of my eyes. My entire life in this bus drivers hands. I wish I could fly.

But we made it. Finally to Mwanza. This city is right on Lake Victoria. A beautiful place. Not much to do, but beautiful.

Carla would be flying out in two days back to Canada. I would be heading back to Morogoro...by bus...and staying with our safari guide. He is letting me stay with him until I figure out what to do next.