Skeletons

During our time in Livingstone we met a Canadian engineer working in Johannesburg. He was on vacation from Jo'burg and was heading to Namibia. He offered a ride and we gladly accepted. No more buses for now.

We left Livingstone with Scott heading to Namibia. We passed up through the Caprivi strip, lush and green. and a couple monkeys. We drove for a few hours up until dusk. Throughout the park they were treating prevent foot and mouth disease. We had to get out of the car as the sprayed around it and had us step onto to a disinfecting mat.

Now we needed to find a place to stay. Looking through the lonely planet we found a safari camp that was just off the main road and outside the park. Scott's little 2-wheel drive Peugot did well through the sandy terrain and we made it to Ngepi Lodge. We reserved a deck tent for N$225. The lodge is on the banks of the Kwando River with resident Hippos.

The next day we were off again just trying to get as far into Namibia as possible. Leaving the camp in the morning proved trickier than expected as the little Peugeot almost drowned itself in a puddle. Just an inch more and the water would have spilt over the floor of the car. With the help of some local kids and a 4x4 with tow rope, we managed to pull out the sinking car.

Soon after we were back on the road heading into Namibia. After 6 hours we were in a small town called Outjo. We check into a lovely Bed & Breakfast, Dan & Mari. The owner a friendly local and the rooms immaculate. We grilled up some wieners for dinner and finished a bottle of gin before gently hitting the mattress.

Next morning we were treated to a tasty breakfast, bacon, eggs and cereal. Its been a while.

Now we were headed to the Skeleton Coast near Torra Bay on the South Atlantic. I can almost see the Canadian shore on the other side. The landscape was slowly changing from green bush to rock sandstone, to simply sand. Two ostriches were kind enough to say hello. The drive took us right to the coast and salt roads and the little Peugeot made it all the way. No 4x4 needed. Amazing to see so much land with nothing on it. Just bare.

In Swakopmund we are staying at a small backpackers in hopes of finding a place for New Years Eve. Everything seems to be fully booked.

A New Swinging Adventure

Today was one to keep my heart pounding. Lindsey and I were off for some adrenaline and Des went for a walking safari through the park.

We were picked up at the hostel at 0830 and stopped at another hotel to pick up some other adrenaline junkies. That said, two were under 14 years old. Shit. If they can do it so can I.

What the full day entailed is this; rappelling, abseiling, zip-lining and a gorge swing. All of this take place in a gorge 146m wide and 96m metres deep. We arrived on site and checked out the size of the gorge. We were promptly introduced to the Gorge Swing. The other clients we picked up only opted for the Gorge Swing so Linds and I watched as the each took turns jumping of the platform. If they can do it so can I. They're little kids.

First we rappelled down the side of the gorge. Pretty cook, but not too scary. Now at the bottom of the gorge we had the thrill of walking all the way back up. Only about 15 minutes, but I was sweating buckets. At the top again we took the zip line. We geared up and clipped in. After a running start we flew, one by one, across the gorge. Just like Superman.

Gorge Swing 101.
When swinging across the gorge keep your arms tucked in and of course, screaming comes naturally. 53 metres of free fall and then a giant swing into the open gorge. First forwards, just like taking a big step. And then a second time backwards, rolling into the void.

Livingstone and Victoria Falls

Finally after five nights in Lusaka Des and I met Lindsey at the bus station. Thankfully, Linds was willing to keep on trucking to Livingstone after just traveling for 2 days straight. We picked up our bus tickets for 90000KW and left Lusaka for our 7 hour journey to Livingstone.

Zambia seems so different. A prayer on the bus and even cold beverages. Most roads were good and the ride went well. Even with a minor break down.

In Livingstone we checked into Jollyboys backpackers hostel. It has a private rooms, dorms, bar and swimming pool. Great place with great people.

The next day we went to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park to take in the natural wonder Victoria Falls. We walked through the park and down into gorges taking in the sights. There is so much mist and no way of staying dry. Even now it has rained every day, seven days straight. The rainy season is well underway. During the dry season the river dries out and only the main falls are flowing over the edge.

Later in the afternoon we booked a walking trek over the falls to Livingstone Island. The trek entailed wailing over the top of the falls for a few hundred metres, over stones and through fast flowing water. Our group formed a chained as not to get swept over the falls. Unbelievable how close we managed to come to the edge of the falls. We even had the chance to sit on the edge with our legs dangling over. Crazy!

It took close to an hour to reach the island. Just past the island is a small natural pool directly on the edge of the falls. If you know what an infinity pool is, imagine one where the edge drops over one hundred metres. After swimming over the top of the falls we jumped into the pool and held onto the ledge. The water was strong and my feet were being pulled up by the current. Definitely a rush. Just feet from death.

After swimming back to the island we enjoyed some cold beers and began our chain walk back to base. If you can see my shoes imagine walking barefoot over rock. They still sting!

Nothing to See Here

A short entry. There is nothing to see in Lusaka. We are waiting for Lindsey to meet us here on Sunday so we can go to Victoria Falls.

Everyone here speaks good English making it easy to get around. There are two shopping malls and otherwise nothing interesting except getting used to the inflated currency.

Which Way to the Border?

I met up with Desmond in Morogoro and we, along with Lindsey, decided to head down to Victoria Falls and then into Malawi for the holidays.

We left at 0900 and caught the bus heading to Mbeya. Mind you the bus was to leave at 0800 and the ride was long and fairly unpleasant. It took us 9 hours to cover the distance, but the landscape was spectacular. The road took us up through mountains and green forests, some coniferous. Something similar to what you could find in Canada. But it rained in the bus again. Looks like we are heading into the rainy season.

Once in Mbeya we played everything by ear as we had no Lonely Planet to inform us of the best places to stay and on how to get to Lusaka, Zambia. My Tanzanian Visa was due to expire the next day meaning I had to leave the country. We checked out the bus station for information and discovered that the trek to Lusaka was no easy feat. Only one company goes to Lusaka and it leaves at 1600 from Mbeya for 60000Tsh. The bus has to spend 24 hours at the border of Zambia, an hour away from Mbeya, before it can get clearance to enter the country. That means sleeping on the bus. At 1600 the next day it leaves the border and arrives early the next morning in Lusaka. If my math is right, that would be a 40+ hour trip. We said we would be back in the morning after we talked it over. After some local Mishikaki, grilled skewered meat, we found a hotel and spent the night.

After a hot shower, WOOHOO!, we headed back to the bus station to figure out a way to get to Lusaka. The bus employees we spoke with in the morning still didn't have anything better to offer so we inquired about walking across the border. We talked about hiring a car or finding an alternate way to get to the border. Our taxi driver from the hotel offered us a ride for 100,000Tsh! Am I white or what? Desmond went out and asked around. With brilliance, and I guess common sense as locals would never take a 60000Tsh bus, he found a local minibus that would take us to the border for 4000Tsh. It would take two hours to reach the border instead of one, but we were saving considerably. We left the bus station with smiles having won the battle.

In the minibus, now at 1000 in the morning, we told the locals our story of being offered a 100000Tsh ride to the border and we joined in a round of laughs.

Two hours later at the border we had little trouble crossing, got our $50 visas and crossed into Zambia. Right away we found a bus going to Zambia for 150000 Zambian Kwacha. The current exchange is around US$1 to KW5000. We offered 40000Tsh (a little high as we had no other currency) and got two seats on the bus. Although we arrived in Zambia at around 1200 the bus was scheduled to leave at 1600. We grabbed some food and walked around the small border town proud of ourselves for having saved time and money!

At 1600 the bus was still there and we were sitting in our seats waiting to leave. 1630. 1700. 1730. I should be getting used to this...1800. 1830. 1900. 1930. Finally at 2000 we were off! However, we noticed more safety regulations and anti-corruption posters in Zambia than in Tanzania. The bus conductor even gave a short welcoming over the PA on the bus and had someone say a short prayer. I was hoping the roads were better in Zambia, but the need for a prayer may signal otherwise.

And we were off. And the roads were great. And the bus wasn't going to fast. Des and I shared a row of three seats with another Tanzanian. It was cramped and uncomfortable. However, a free seat opened up and Des decided to move.

We arrived in Lusaka at 1030 alive, hungry and in one piece. No where to stay. It was off to a bookstore for a Lonely Planet guide.

Overlooking Morogoro

Back in Morogoro and I have moved in with Augustin, our former safari guide. He has given me a room in his house overlooking Morogoro. It has a great view and the constant breeze is welcomed. Definitely thankful to have a place to stay.

Over the holidays, I will meet up with Desmond, YCI staff from Zanzibar, and we will head down to Zambia and Malawi. Lindsey has work to finish, but she will meet us in Lusaka before we make our way to Victoria Falls.

But for right now being back in Morogoro is great. I little down time before some more dreaded bus trips.

I Wish I Could Fly

Crossing back into Tanzania, we walked across border from Rwanda and took a taxi to the next village where we decided to stay overnight. Definitely interesting. We stayed in a small guest house for 3500Tsh. We ate rice and beans.

We purchased our bus tickets to Mwanza that evening. The bus was leaving at 600 so we made it a plan to head to bed early. Not that going to bed early was hard now. It was almost like a routine. 2100 was feeling like midnight.

That morning we waited in the cold for the bus to arrive. The "sales agent" who sold us the tickets was there too. When the bus came, it was full. No seats. Boy were we happy and did that guy ever get an earful.

It would be a long journey and every bus ride is a gamble with death. This trip was the deadliest of all. I thought I was going to die. No word of a lie. Bumps, rain pouring in the window, swerving. It was all in front of my eyes. My entire life in this bus drivers hands. I wish I could fly.

But we made it. Finally to Mwanza. This city is right on Lake Victoria. A beautiful place. Not much to do, but beautiful.

Carla would be flying out in two days back to Canada. I would be heading back to Morogoro...by bus...and staying with our safari guide. He is letting me stay with him until I figure out what to do next.

Flash of Reality

We arrived midday in Kigali after an hour long bus trip over the border and through lush green hills of tea on winding roads. Everywhere so far has been nice and cold, especially the evenings. A good change from sweating everyday.

Our first stop in Kigali was the Hotel des Mille Collines. I'll let you do the research, but it was made famous during the Rwandan Genocide in 1994 housing thousands of refugees.

We explored more of Kigali and found a great mall. Overall a wonderful first impression. Even the motorcycle taxis carry helmets for the passengers. A rare sight in Tanzania.

The next day we met another fellow Canadian who joined us on the way to the Kigali Memorial. The memorial looks new and the road leading up to it as well. Inside is the history and details of the horrific event that took place in 1994 along Outside, mass graves surround the building. The hardest part of it was to walk through a separate wing of the memorial dedicate to children who lost their lives. It described their favourite foods, their personality and then...how they died - by machete. It was very hard to walk through and see all the tiny faces, the last pictures that relatives had of these kids.

Tenting at Lake Bunyoni

Once we made it to Kabale, Uganda, we took a short cab ride out to Lake Bunyoni. As always, cab drivers are most willing to take you anywhere. We hired a cab that would take us up to the lake.

As we made our way over the hills, the car gave out. It stopped. We looked at each other. The driver tells us no worries. He tries to drive up the hill again. Nope. So we hop out and we start to push. Nope. This was starting to get hilarious. He popped the hood, started unscrewing the spark plugs and takes a good look at them. He then turns to us and says, "Its the spark plugs." He then pulls off the hose feeding the engine with gasoline and gives each spark plug a good bath in the stuff. He screws them back in, connects the petrol line and then tries the engine. It starts, but only crawls up the hill. We walk behind for a bit. Then the car picks up speed and takes off up the hill out of sight. We look at each other, again.

Now we are stuck walking up a hill, laughing out of complete surprise. We hale down the next car that turns out to be a 4WD. In it, 3 men on their way to the lake as well. We hop in and we tell them our story. Once up the hill we see our cab. We ask to stop and proceed to unload the cab with our things and take the 4WD to the lake. But the cab driver still wants his full share of the fare. No way. He gets a good piece of it though.

Back in the 4WD we find out that the front passenger is from Cameroon and is having a conference at a resort on the Lake. The passenger sitting next to us is the resort manager. We think we've struck gold. We even get to use our French. They take us to the resort and invite us to stay. We ask the price and find out its the same for everyone with no discount or any chance of bargaining. However, the location is beautiful and the room is a tent on stilts overlooking the lake. It comes with two beds and a telephone. To keep the cost down we decide to keep one of us on the floor.

Just as we checked in our cab driver friend shows up and says, "You forgot this." He's holding Lindsey's sleeping bag. Now he wants all of his fare. After some discussion we end up giving it to him. Such dedication.

The lake is beautiful and well worth the visit. There are so many birds. I spent one morning sitting on the porch overlooking the lake and watching hundreds of birds.

We met some friends from South Africa on holiday and sat by the fire to chat. Carla and Lindsey headed out for some canoeing the next day after we all got caught in a down pour. Soaked to the bones.

Our next stop was to be Kigali, Rwanda two days later.

Highway to Hell

Now that I've moved out of my home stay and projects have finished, Carla, Lindsey and I decided to take a little road trip that would take us through East Africa and around Lake Victoria.

We all met up in Dar at the YWCA before starting our trip. While we were checking in we met an amazing couple from Australia and New Zealand. They had been traveling the world by motorcycle for 2 years. The had so many stories to tell. One story involved the removal of an appendix. Either way the amazing stories eclipsed any scary tales. The couple had one country that kept finding its way into our conversation; Iran. They couldn't say enough about it. All of it positive and exciting to hear. Friendly people filled their stories. How people would welcome you and want to sit with you for hours and discuss your travels, your politics and views on life. They would then discuss and share their tales as well. Now it has been ingrained in my mind as a future destination.

We left for Kampala, Uganda early the next morning with Kampala Coach. The scheduled travel time...27 hours! Can you believe it? I would be in a speeding tin box for over a day. This is what its all about. The bus stopped at a service station for food and we were able to relieve ourselves there or on the side of the road, which is the norm. Men to one side and women to the other.

We crossed through the Kenyan border with ease, although with a little confusion. Let me lay out the game plan: The bus pulls up to the border. The conductor of the bus (he checks tickets and assists the driver) tells everyone to get off the bus and go to customs. He says, "10 minutes!" So we hop off the bus and go to the customs counter. We are directed to fill out a form, but it says "Tanzania." Aren't we in Kenya? This is only the departure form for Tanzania. We fill it out, get a stamp and walk across the border through two gates. Finally on the Kenyan side we pay for our Visas, $20 transit, and make our way back on the bus. And if you want to change your money, there are always a handful of locals at your disposal. Fairly simple after you know what to expect.

We continued on our leg through Kenya and into Nairobi. From what I was told, Nairobi looked like a lively metropolis. Bright lights and tall buildings. Too bad I was asleep. We unloaded and picked up some passengers before making our way into Uganda.

We crossed the Ugandan border at sunrise. By 1100 we were in Kampala. Tired, hungry and glad to still be alive.

We stayed at a backpackers hostel in Kampala. Nice place, but expensive food compared to local meals. I explored the city that evening and even managed to fend off a pickpocket after leaving the ATM. We had planned to go on a 2-day white water rafting trip the next day, but half of the group we were going with cancelled. So instead, 1 day.

We rafted with Adrift, based out of Jinja. They picked us up early the next day and we headed to some hotels to pick up other rafters.

At the Adrift camp we met our team of rafters and our guides. Our guide, Josh was Canadian and works here for 6 months to raft. Our raft included three Italian brothers on holiday. Great guys.

The trip lasted all day, lunch to break up the day, and included some wicked rafting at the source of the Nile. Class 3, 4 and 5 rapids enough to scare the shit out of you. Even a 15 foot waterfall. Backwards! An awesome time.

We spent a total of 5 days in Kampala exploring the city and visiting the Kasubi Tombs of the Buganda People, recognized as a World Heritage Site.

From Kampala we would head to Lake Bunyoni near the Rwandan border for a few nights before making our way to Kigali, Rwanda.