Up and Up

I finally had the chance to climb to the top of the Uluguru Mountains. Every day I've been looking up wondering what the view is like from there.

Close to the beginning of the project, we all attempted to hike up to an abandoned weekend retreat in the Uluguru Mountains known as Morningside. Morningside lies halfway from the top at 1000m metres. We made it close, but ran out of water forcing us to turn around. We were all tired and headed back down to town.

This time, I was joined by Katherine, who was a volunteer with YCI in Zanzibar, her boyfriend Joel, Habibu, Sebi and Frankie. Habibu and Frankie both help out at the Kilakala Youth Centre. Both have been to the top before and could guide us safely.

We met up just outside town at 0700 with plenty of water, fruits and bread to keep us going throughout the day. I wasn't going to risk my chance getting to the top. The day was overcast and not as hot as usual.

The beginning of the hike takes you through farmland and small villages. Most of the farmland, which once was dense forest, are crops of maize, cassava and beans. Following the path up through the villages you notice how red the soil is. Over time, the soil has eroded exposing tree roots and making some parts of the trail tricky to navigate. That said, we were continually passed by local villagers wearing flip-flops carrying water or other heavy goods on their heads.

Further up, the crops change to bananas, peas, beans, cabbage and onions. The mountainside has been clear cut of trees and cut into a large set of stairs allowing for cultivation. More than two-thirds of the mountain's forest have been replaced with farmland.

We reached Morningside after 4 hours. The last part of the trail up to Morningside had many beautiful flowers and with it butterflies. The view back through the mountains overlooking Morogoro is amazing. We had lunch here and bought some carrots and a "permit" to climb the mountain.

Katherine, Joel and Sebi headed back down while the rest of us would trek on to the top of Bondwe Peak. After leaving Morningside, we took a steep path through more farmland using all four limbs before reaching an abandoned guard post an hour later. We signed our names on the wall inside along with those of previous visitors. Just past the guard post is where the real forest begins. Along both slopes, eucalyptus trees are planted to mark the edge of the forest reserve. However, the demand for farmland, fuel wood and building materials means that the boundaries are often ignored.

Once in the forest, I imagined I was in the Jungle Book. Huge trees, thick bush and ferns everywhere. Butterflies fluttering past me, monkeys chatting and birds calling with songs made it surreal. The hike was not easy by any means, but walking through this enchanted wilderness was breathtaking.

And even in such a beautiful place, with limited means of access, signs of humans are easily found. Garbage, especially plastic bottles, are left on the ground and not packed out. Garbage in town is handled in much the same way. Just toss it. Even though I made it a point to pick up what I could, Habibu didn't think twice about chucking his plastic waste into the forest. I tried to question him and encourage him to pack it out, but when it happened again I gave up.

Nearing the top and three hours later, the path widens and opens up to a beautiful vista at the peak, Bondwe peak. On top, you can see everything. Even though it was overcast, we could still see far enough to enjoy our accomplishment. We watched clouds pass us as they pushed their way over the mountain.

Bondwe peak is home to a communication tower feeding signals for television, radio and telephone. Two staff were present and showed us around the inside of the control room. Apparently they stay for one week and are then relieved by two new staff who also have to trek up the mountain.

We took a rest and I changed by shirt. It was soaked. It could have been pulled straight out of the wash. I wrung out my shirt and I swear, no joke, no exaggeration, I was able to wring out enough sweat to fill a pint glass half full.

For a snack, banana spread on bread and then a nap.

After a half hour on top we headed back down. First out of the forest and then back down through farmland and into town. My legs were tired and I have never been so excited for rice and beans.

Chamwino Gets a New Coat

This morning Carla, Lindsey, Lonny and I headed to Chamwino to continue our programming we started back in October. Lonny ran his computer classes with the help of Kilakala local Barisa which had his sign up sheet filled within minutes, while Carla and I held an English class in the beautiful new school, fresh paint and all.

This is going to be a great asset to the next phase of volunteers, the community and the local youth.

Debrief in Dar

Phase 14 has come to an end. Time to go. At least for most of us.

We spent our debrief in Dar Es Salaam to discuss successes, failures and future goals. Jessica and Lindsey ended our two month phase with great activities. Not to mention we spent those hours debriefing in a real Subway restaurant.

We stayed at the local Y.W.C.A. arriving on Sunday afternoon. After arriving we strolled the streets, sipped coffee and browsed a local bookstore. That evening we went out to the Slipway where you can eat almost any type of food. Everything from pizza to sushi to curry. It felt like a lively city with people, restaurants, bars, a mall and entertainment.

The next morning we saw off Julia who was taking a bus to Moshi. She is planning to climb Mount Kilimanjaro and will, no doubt, have great stories to tell. It was sad to see her go not knowing when I'll see her again.

So the entire day was spent with the foursome left and we wandered around Dar, checked out a local art museum, the National Museum and played checkers with local fisherman. The National Museum displayed the history of the now Republic of Tanzania. It contained local artifacts, natural sciences and the history of rulers and slavery through the times.

After the museum we walked down to the Ocean in search of food. We were looking for rice and beans, but instead found a small stand selling mishkaki, basically grilled skewered meat. Its delicious. We only had a few skewered, but the "chef" was a wonderfully intelligent man. He spoke fluent English and French. We've never met a local like this before. He sat with us and his conversations were entertaining.

After mishkaki, we followed the beach down to where fisherman were cleaning their boats and enjoying each others company. We were still looking for rice and beans and this is where we found it. A group of women were selling the dish to the local fisherman. We couldn't resist. We asked, we were served, we eat on the floor, we swallowed whole mouthfuls and we paid 800TSH for a bowl of the gold. We definitely got a few laughs, but damn worth it. Having been in Morogoro and speaking Swahili was a plus. Afterwards Lonny and I played checkers with the local fisherman who used water bottle caps as checker pieces. I played first. Dark blue versus light blue. I lost. Lonny played. He lost. We left.That evening, back at the YWCA we had to take the rest of the Zanzibar team and our Katie to the airport. We all piled into a rented daladala and headed out. We saw Katie off, smiling and waving, laughing when she walked through the metal detector and it went off and feeling a little sad. Another one gone. Now, only the three amigos are left standing together heading back to Morogoro, Lonny, Carla and me.

Tick Tock

These past few days have been busy with composing final reports and making sure to get enough time in with everyone we met before heading back home. The past 8 weeks have been the fastest of my life. In the time those weeks have flashed by I made new friends, traveled to beautiful places and learned more about myself and the world around me.

Last minute projects are finally coming together and I hope to have them finished before I leave. Last week Lonny and I finished writing CVs in our boys club and rumour has it that one member already has a job offer. Carla and I run an English class out of the youth centre and this phase saw 4 new women join. They have shown up regularly over the past month showing their commitment to learn. That in turn motivates us to provide the most practical and beneficial lessons with the intention of bringing them back class after class. Consistent attendance can measure success.

Lonny and I live with a generous and loving host family. We wanted to thank them and show them that their hospitality was greatly appreciated. We picked up some school books for Ash and Robert and made a photo collage for the family that is now hanging in the living room. No doubt I will miss them.

Not only am I leaving my friends in Tanzania, but also my colleagues with whom I've made life-long friendships with. They have given me support, provided moments of uncontrollable laughter and challenged me to be who I am. They will be the only ones who can truly appreciate these stories and tie them to a moment in their life.

I do miss home and all the amenities that come with it. Using a bucket to shower is fine, its the Wiener Schnitzel and potato salad I miss the most.

The Island of Zanzibar

We finally decided to make a getaway to Zanzibar for the weekend.

We left early Friday morning at 0600 to catch the first bus out of Morogoro headed to Dar Es Salaam. At the bus station we managed to find a bus half full and only had to wait 15 or 20 minutes before leaving just after 0700.

In Dar we took a 20 minute cab ride to the harbour. There were so many cab drivers looking for customers. The starting price was 20,000Tsh! We were told no more than 10,000Tsh so we laughed and waited for a driver to come down to the fair price. We loaded the cab, with harassment and left the bus station. We arrived at the harbour at 0930.

At the harbour we had to buy our tickets for the ferry. There are many boats and everyone wants to sell to you. We went inside one ticket office and handed over our passports for the sales rep to copy our names. Before leaving, Jess and Linds told us that fares would be around 35-40,000Tsh. The price we given was 60,000Tsh. So we grabbed our passports and walked out of the office. Apparently, we needed residence permits to buy the tickets at the lower price. A few minutes later the same sales rep approaches us and tells us that his manager has found us a solution. We meet with his manager who apparently was able to "find" seats for us for 40,000Tsh and even "upgraded" us to first class for "free."

The ferry was double hulled like a "cat" and took about 2 hours to cross to Zanzibar. The ferry itself was in good shape and we had no problems crossing. We even meet 4 Norwegian girls spending 5 weeks working at the hospital in Zanzibar.

Once we reached the island we were required to show our passports again and fill in immigration paperwork. Although Zanzibar and Tanzania now make up the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still acts as though it were separate. My passport now has one more stamp.

The buildings in Stonetown are old and they make up a labyrinth throughout the town. Getting to our Inn with the help of the Zanzi volunteers proved helpful. We definitely would have lost our way. After settling into our rooms we headed out to see the nightlife in Stonetown.

We made our way through the town and in and out of markets. It is a totally different feel than Morogoro, tourists everywhere. Be prepared to be offered all sorts of T-shirts and CDs. In a small street we found stands laden with fish and meat. All was ready to be grilled in front of you. There was even a man grilling pizzas. It was delicious.

We spent Saturday in Page, and hour by daladala, at a quiet beach enjoying the rolling surf and mesmerizing colours of the Indian Ocean. The water salty and warm.

That evening we were invited to a feast at the volunteers host family house. There were 14 of us in total and the food was amazing. There was Pilau (rice and potatoes with spices), sugar cane noodles, fresh vegetables, fresh bread and other amazing foods that I don't know the name to.

Sunday was one of the greatest days. We booked a trip with Safari Blue, a trip over the Indian Ocean. We took a taxi down to Fumba where the trip left from. We boarded into wooden sailboats known as Dhows. These were rigged with an outboard motor that would get us to the sandbar for the first leg of the trip. On the way to the sandbar we saw 5 dolphins.

After making it to the sandbar, we grabbed some fresh pineapple and our snorkeling gear before heading out to snorkel. Back on the boat, we travelled around an island to a wonderful reef with many fish. We geared up and jumped into the water snorkeling with all sorts of fish. It was a great experience.

Later we headed into a mangrove lagoon to relax and swim for a bit.

After the lagoon we went to a larger island where we were treated to traditional music and dance along with some amazing seafood; local fish, lobster, rice, coconut tomato sauce and a sample of local fruit.

We spent the rest of the afternoon eating, exploring and swimming in the ocean.

When we were ready to leave we boarded our dhow, raised the sail, and skimmed our way back to mainland in the wind.

The day ended at a fantastic Italian restaurant with pasta and pizza.

Sumaye Secondary School Performance

Today we gave a presentation at Sumaye Secondary School with the help of the drama group and Marko.

The drama group preformed short comedies with HIV/AIDS messages that were well received by the youth.

Other activities included "Crossing the Bridge", "True and False", "Women and HIV", "HIV Spread and Condom Use" and a question and answer period.

The presentation lasted 2 hours and provided excellent information for the 250 youth.

A Sign?

The last two days have been ones of shock.

Yesterday I was doing some work on a laptop in my room. We have a power bar in the room that allows for all plug configurations because the laptop has a North American plug. Plugs here are the same as the UK. I unpacked the laptop and the power adaptor for the laptop. While the adaptor wasn't connected to the laptop I plugged it into the live power bar. Then I grabbed the other end that plugs into the laptop.

ZZZZZZZZZZAP!!! "WOAH!"

My right arm flew into the air and I couldn't control it. My entire right side from my shoulders to my hips tingled with a surge of electricity. Definitely a new experience.

I finished my work on the laptop and closed the computer.

ZZZZZZZZZZAP!!! "Wwwhat the hell!"

Again. This time with less surprise, but with just as much tingling.

Later that day I came home during the hottest part of the day to take nap. It gets warm under a tin roof so I decided to turn on the fan. The fan has a European plug. It is also plugged into the power bar. This time no shock.

A few minutes later I can smell smoke and look at the clock. It's around lunch time and I figured it was Mama cooking lunch. This time it wasn't food smoking. I turned to look at the fan. The fan had overheated and burst into flames. I grabbed the fan, pulled out the plug and run it outside. Walking back to the room I can see a haze of smoke.

What a day. Bad luck or was my life in jeopardy?

I Have a Name

Walking into town on most if not every day will spark conversation.

The children in the Kilakala, or at least near the house where I live, will greet me by name and ask where I am going. Some will greet me with "Shikamoo", a greeting out of respect, and I will answer "Marahaba", meaning "I thank you for your respect." However, as soon as I walk out any further things change.

People are always outside on their porches or in front of their houses making mats, selling vegetables or charcoal. The older children attending classes at school, but the younger kids are staring at me walking past them. And the greetings I or any other volunteer get isn't "Shikamoo", but "Mzungu!", "White Person!". I don't believe it be hurtful or disrespectful, but just a word that has been used to describe foreigners. So I take it in stride with a smile. And another smile and another because this doesn't just happen once or twice, but everyday. So you can imagine me walking down the same street passing those same four, five and six-year-olds children and getting bombarded with "Mzungu!" Things changed today. The first "Mzungu!" I hear walking into town came from the same kids I saw yesterday. So I walk over to their porch where the kids are sitting along with a few Mamas and maybe a Bibi (grandmother), and I greet the elders, "Shikamoo."

Then I look into the little children's eyes and ask, "Jina lako nani?", "What is your name?"

"Nema," said the little girl.

"Mimi, naitwa Quinten. Sawa?" "Me, my name is Quinten. OK?"

No Response. So I repeat my name hoping they get the point and then ask how things are, "Mambo vipi?" To which all the kids respond, "Poa!", "Cool". Two down, and many more to go.

I leave that house and turn down the road towards the market.

"Mzungu!" Damn it!

The main road into town is paved and busy with cars, trucks, bicycles and motorcycles of which half probably don't have a driver's license and those that do have one need more practice behind the wheel. Instead I take the back road into town.

This quieter road passes by an old cemetery marked with wooden crosses, each boxed in with a rectangular cement border. Next to the cemetery is the local soccer field. The posts are coconut tree trunks and the crossbars made of bamboo, nailed to each wooden post.

Leaving the soccer field behind, I cross a cement bridge over a small river and into the Kilakala market. There are shops selling bananas, coconuts, potatoes and other vegetables. Shops with fried whole fish, shops with hanging chunks of meat in the doorway and even a small music shop with CDs. There are bars to sit and have a cold beer or soda.

Even here the soft drink giants have a market. Coco-Cola and Pepsi ads are everywhere. Where ever a free space is available I only see Tanzanian Telecom ads. These are also the only ads on TV and I have quickly memorized their tag lines.

"Zain. A Wonderful World."
"Vodacom. Pajoma Daima."
"Tigo. Express Yourself!"

Still walking along the dirt road, I pass through the market and behind the local prison. Prisoners in orange jumpsuits are busy sweeping the earth and gathering garbage under the "watchful eye" of the guards busy playing a game of guards. A fence with holes separates inmates from the "Mzungu."

Still further I pass by a school for the hearing impaired. I usually see them playing soccer in the adjacent field in the afternoon and was invited to join in a game yesterday.

Past the school for the hearing impaired is a primary government school. During the morning many people sell candies, nuts and home-made freezies along this road. It shouldn't be surprising that school children in their blue and white school uniforms form swarms around the vendors like bees around a hive.

Hoping that all the kids are distracted, I take my chance walking through the swarm to get to town. Everything goes smoothly.

"Good morning."

"Good morning," I reply.

No matter what time of day, its always "Good morning." Must come from greeting the teacher at school. What follows is the only other English they know, "How are you?" Now imagine hundreds of school children repeatedly asking how I'm doing. By the time the last kid asks me I'm not doing so well anymore. The same happens back in Kilakala. Children using the only English they know.

After the sea of blue and white I walk past not one, but two coffin makers. Eerie to say the least. Although better here than right next to the cemetery.

Before town is the Tanzanian Ministry of Finance and the courthouse.

I make it into town in under 30 minutes and the mountains are always a beautiful backdrop.

Let's hope that the walk back home is just as exciting! Even though the anti-malarial "Apo-Mefloquine" is providing enough excitement in my dreams already.

A look into Life at "Home"

Yanga Vs Morogoro Police

This Saturday we watched a local soccer game at Jamhuri Stadium. The match featured one of the top teams in Tanzania, Yanga, from Dar Es Salaam.

Entrance was 3,000Tsh and it was busy. Their were vendors selling sugar cane, ice cream and of course, cold water.

Some calls were questionable, but with so many police around with batons, no one put up too much of a fight. The match ended 0-0.

Ushujaa kwa Uhai

This week we held our first "Ushujaa kwa Uhai" in Chamwino. Our audience was estimated at 500. Definitley a huge turnout.We set up a tent and hired a local DJ and invited local youth to show off their talent. Local artists were showcased to kick off afternoon. Some performances included the local youth singing, dancing and rapping.The local Morogoro school's Girls' Club was invited to preform a traditional dance with drummers.

The Spin Off

Baba and I having a soccer ball spin off.