Skeletons

During our time in Livingstone we met a Canadian engineer working in Johannesburg. He was on vacation from Jo'burg and was heading to Namibia. He offered a ride and we gladly accepted. No more buses for now.

We left Livingstone with Scott heading to Namibia. We passed up through the Caprivi strip, lush and green. and a couple monkeys. We drove for a few hours up until dusk. Throughout the park they were treating prevent foot and mouth disease. We had to get out of the car as the sprayed around it and had us step onto to a disinfecting mat.

Now we needed to find a place to stay. Looking through the lonely planet we found a safari camp that was just off the main road and outside the park. Scott's little 2-wheel drive Peugot did well through the sandy terrain and we made it to Ngepi Lodge. We reserved a deck tent for N$225. The lodge is on the banks of the Kwando River with resident Hippos.

The next day we were off again just trying to get as far into Namibia as possible. Leaving the camp in the morning proved trickier than expected as the little Peugeot almost drowned itself in a puddle. Just an inch more and the water would have spilt over the floor of the car. With the help of some local kids and a 4x4 with tow rope, we managed to pull out the sinking car.

Soon after we were back on the road heading into Namibia. After 6 hours we were in a small town called Outjo. We check into a lovely Bed & Breakfast, Dan & Mari. The owner a friendly local and the rooms immaculate. We grilled up some wieners for dinner and finished a bottle of gin before gently hitting the mattress.

Next morning we were treated to a tasty breakfast, bacon, eggs and cereal. Its been a while.

Now we were headed to the Skeleton Coast near Torra Bay on the South Atlantic. I can almost see the Canadian shore on the other side. The landscape was slowly changing from green bush to rock sandstone, to simply sand. Two ostriches were kind enough to say hello. The drive took us right to the coast and salt roads and the little Peugeot made it all the way. No 4x4 needed. Amazing to see so much land with nothing on it. Just bare.

In Swakopmund we are staying at a small backpackers in hopes of finding a place for New Years Eve. Everything seems to be fully booked.

A New Swinging Adventure

Today was one to keep my heart pounding. Lindsey and I were off for some adrenaline and Des went for a walking safari through the park.

We were picked up at the hostel at 0830 and stopped at another hotel to pick up some other adrenaline junkies. That said, two were under 14 years old. Shit. If they can do it so can I.

What the full day entailed is this; rappelling, abseiling, zip-lining and a gorge swing. All of this take place in a gorge 146m wide and 96m metres deep. We arrived on site and checked out the size of the gorge. We were promptly introduced to the Gorge Swing. The other clients we picked up only opted for the Gorge Swing so Linds and I watched as the each took turns jumping of the platform. If they can do it so can I. They're little kids.

First we rappelled down the side of the gorge. Pretty cook, but not too scary. Now at the bottom of the gorge we had the thrill of walking all the way back up. Only about 15 minutes, but I was sweating buckets. At the top again we took the zip line. We geared up and clipped in. After a running start we flew, one by one, across the gorge. Just like Superman.

Gorge Swing 101.
When swinging across the gorge keep your arms tucked in and of course, screaming comes naturally. 53 metres of free fall and then a giant swing into the open gorge. First forwards, just like taking a big step. And then a second time backwards, rolling into the void.

Livingstone and Victoria Falls

Finally after five nights in Lusaka Des and I met Lindsey at the bus station. Thankfully, Linds was willing to keep on trucking to Livingstone after just traveling for 2 days straight. We picked up our bus tickets for 90000KW and left Lusaka for our 7 hour journey to Livingstone.

Zambia seems so different. A prayer on the bus and even cold beverages. Most roads were good and the ride went well. Even with a minor break down.

In Livingstone we checked into Jollyboys backpackers hostel. It has a private rooms, dorms, bar and swimming pool. Great place with great people.

The next day we went to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park to take in the natural wonder Victoria Falls. We walked through the park and down into gorges taking in the sights. There is so much mist and no way of staying dry. Even now it has rained every day, seven days straight. The rainy season is well underway. During the dry season the river dries out and only the main falls are flowing over the edge.

Later in the afternoon we booked a walking trek over the falls to Livingstone Island. The trek entailed wailing over the top of the falls for a few hundred metres, over stones and through fast flowing water. Our group formed a chained as not to get swept over the falls. Unbelievable how close we managed to come to the edge of the falls. We even had the chance to sit on the edge with our legs dangling over. Crazy!

It took close to an hour to reach the island. Just past the island is a small natural pool directly on the edge of the falls. If you know what an infinity pool is, imagine one where the edge drops over one hundred metres. After swimming over the top of the falls we jumped into the pool and held onto the ledge. The water was strong and my feet were being pulled up by the current. Definitely a rush. Just feet from death.

After swimming back to the island we enjoyed some cold beers and began our chain walk back to base. If you can see my shoes imagine walking barefoot over rock. They still sting!

Nothing to See Here

A short entry. There is nothing to see in Lusaka. We are waiting for Lindsey to meet us here on Sunday so we can go to Victoria Falls.

Everyone here speaks good English making it easy to get around. There are two shopping malls and otherwise nothing interesting except getting used to the inflated currency.

Which Way to the Border?

I met up with Desmond in Morogoro and we, along with Lindsey, decided to head down to Victoria Falls and then into Malawi for the holidays.

We left at 0900 and caught the bus heading to Mbeya. Mind you the bus was to leave at 0800 and the ride was long and fairly unpleasant. It took us 9 hours to cover the distance, but the landscape was spectacular. The road took us up through mountains and green forests, some coniferous. Something similar to what you could find in Canada. But it rained in the bus again. Looks like we are heading into the rainy season.

Once in Mbeya we played everything by ear as we had no Lonely Planet to inform us of the best places to stay and on how to get to Lusaka, Zambia. My Tanzanian Visa was due to expire the next day meaning I had to leave the country. We checked out the bus station for information and discovered that the trek to Lusaka was no easy feat. Only one company goes to Lusaka and it leaves at 1600 from Mbeya for 60000Tsh. The bus has to spend 24 hours at the border of Zambia, an hour away from Mbeya, before it can get clearance to enter the country. That means sleeping on the bus. At 1600 the next day it leaves the border and arrives early the next morning in Lusaka. If my math is right, that would be a 40+ hour trip. We said we would be back in the morning after we talked it over. After some local Mishikaki, grilled skewered meat, we found a hotel and spent the night.

After a hot shower, WOOHOO!, we headed back to the bus station to figure out a way to get to Lusaka. The bus employees we spoke with in the morning still didn't have anything better to offer so we inquired about walking across the border. We talked about hiring a car or finding an alternate way to get to the border. Our taxi driver from the hotel offered us a ride for 100,000Tsh! Am I white or what? Desmond went out and asked around. With brilliance, and I guess common sense as locals would never take a 60000Tsh bus, he found a local minibus that would take us to the border for 4000Tsh. It would take two hours to reach the border instead of one, but we were saving considerably. We left the bus station with smiles having won the battle.

In the minibus, now at 1000 in the morning, we told the locals our story of being offered a 100000Tsh ride to the border and we joined in a round of laughs.

Two hours later at the border we had little trouble crossing, got our $50 visas and crossed into Zambia. Right away we found a bus going to Zambia for 150000 Zambian Kwacha. The current exchange is around US$1 to KW5000. We offered 40000Tsh (a little high as we had no other currency) and got two seats on the bus. Although we arrived in Zambia at around 1200 the bus was scheduled to leave at 1600. We grabbed some food and walked around the small border town proud of ourselves for having saved time and money!

At 1600 the bus was still there and we were sitting in our seats waiting to leave. 1630. 1700. 1730. I should be getting used to this...1800. 1830. 1900. 1930. Finally at 2000 we were off! However, we noticed more safety regulations and anti-corruption posters in Zambia than in Tanzania. The bus conductor even gave a short welcoming over the PA on the bus and had someone say a short prayer. I was hoping the roads were better in Zambia, but the need for a prayer may signal otherwise.

And we were off. And the roads were great. And the bus wasn't going to fast. Des and I shared a row of three seats with another Tanzanian. It was cramped and uncomfortable. However, a free seat opened up and Des decided to move.

We arrived in Lusaka at 1030 alive, hungry and in one piece. No where to stay. It was off to a bookstore for a Lonely Planet guide.

Overlooking Morogoro

Back in Morogoro and I have moved in with Augustin, our former safari guide. He has given me a room in his house overlooking Morogoro. It has a great view and the constant breeze is welcomed. Definitely thankful to have a place to stay.

Over the holidays, I will meet up with Desmond, YCI staff from Zanzibar, and we will head down to Zambia and Malawi. Lindsey has work to finish, but she will meet us in Lusaka before we make our way to Victoria Falls.

But for right now being back in Morogoro is great. I little down time before some more dreaded bus trips.

I Wish I Could Fly

Crossing back into Tanzania, we walked across border from Rwanda and took a taxi to the next village where we decided to stay overnight. Definitely interesting. We stayed in a small guest house for 3500Tsh. We ate rice and beans.

We purchased our bus tickets to Mwanza that evening. The bus was leaving at 600 so we made it a plan to head to bed early. Not that going to bed early was hard now. It was almost like a routine. 2100 was feeling like midnight.

That morning we waited in the cold for the bus to arrive. The "sales agent" who sold us the tickets was there too. When the bus came, it was full. No seats. Boy were we happy and did that guy ever get an earful.

It would be a long journey and every bus ride is a gamble with death. This trip was the deadliest of all. I thought I was going to die. No word of a lie. Bumps, rain pouring in the window, swerving. It was all in front of my eyes. My entire life in this bus drivers hands. I wish I could fly.

But we made it. Finally to Mwanza. This city is right on Lake Victoria. A beautiful place. Not much to do, but beautiful.

Carla would be flying out in two days back to Canada. I would be heading back to Morogoro...by bus...and staying with our safari guide. He is letting me stay with him until I figure out what to do next.

Flash of Reality

We arrived midday in Kigali after an hour long bus trip over the border and through lush green hills of tea on winding roads. Everywhere so far has been nice and cold, especially the evenings. A good change from sweating everyday.

Our first stop in Kigali was the Hotel des Mille Collines. I'll let you do the research, but it was made famous during the Rwandan Genocide in 1994 housing thousands of refugees.

We explored more of Kigali and found a great mall. Overall a wonderful first impression. Even the motorcycle taxis carry helmets for the passengers. A rare sight in Tanzania.

The next day we met another fellow Canadian who joined us on the way to the Kigali Memorial. The memorial looks new and the road leading up to it as well. Inside is the history and details of the horrific event that took place in 1994 along Outside, mass graves surround the building. The hardest part of it was to walk through a separate wing of the memorial dedicate to children who lost their lives. It described their favourite foods, their personality and then...how they died - by machete. It was very hard to walk through and see all the tiny faces, the last pictures that relatives had of these kids.

Tenting at Lake Bunyoni

Once we made it to Kabale, Uganda, we took a short cab ride out to Lake Bunyoni. As always, cab drivers are most willing to take you anywhere. We hired a cab that would take us up to the lake.

As we made our way over the hills, the car gave out. It stopped. We looked at each other. The driver tells us no worries. He tries to drive up the hill again. Nope. So we hop out and we start to push. Nope. This was starting to get hilarious. He popped the hood, started unscrewing the spark plugs and takes a good look at them. He then turns to us and says, "Its the spark plugs." He then pulls off the hose feeding the engine with gasoline and gives each spark plug a good bath in the stuff. He screws them back in, connects the petrol line and then tries the engine. It starts, but only crawls up the hill. We walk behind for a bit. Then the car picks up speed and takes off up the hill out of sight. We look at each other, again.

Now we are stuck walking up a hill, laughing out of complete surprise. We hale down the next car that turns out to be a 4WD. In it, 3 men on their way to the lake as well. We hop in and we tell them our story. Once up the hill we see our cab. We ask to stop and proceed to unload the cab with our things and take the 4WD to the lake. But the cab driver still wants his full share of the fare. No way. He gets a good piece of it though.

Back in the 4WD we find out that the front passenger is from Cameroon and is having a conference at a resort on the Lake. The passenger sitting next to us is the resort manager. We think we've struck gold. We even get to use our French. They take us to the resort and invite us to stay. We ask the price and find out its the same for everyone with no discount or any chance of bargaining. However, the location is beautiful and the room is a tent on stilts overlooking the lake. It comes with two beds and a telephone. To keep the cost down we decide to keep one of us on the floor.

Just as we checked in our cab driver friend shows up and says, "You forgot this." He's holding Lindsey's sleeping bag. Now he wants all of his fare. After some discussion we end up giving it to him. Such dedication.

The lake is beautiful and well worth the visit. There are so many birds. I spent one morning sitting on the porch overlooking the lake and watching hundreds of birds.

We met some friends from South Africa on holiday and sat by the fire to chat. Carla and Lindsey headed out for some canoeing the next day after we all got caught in a down pour. Soaked to the bones.

Our next stop was to be Kigali, Rwanda two days later.

Highway to Hell

Now that I've moved out of my home stay and projects have finished, Carla, Lindsey and I decided to take a little road trip that would take us through East Africa and around Lake Victoria.

We all met up in Dar at the YWCA before starting our trip. While we were checking in we met an amazing couple from Australia and New Zealand. They had been traveling the world by motorcycle for 2 years. The had so many stories to tell. One story involved the removal of an appendix. Either way the amazing stories eclipsed any scary tales. The couple had one country that kept finding its way into our conversation; Iran. They couldn't say enough about it. All of it positive and exciting to hear. Friendly people filled their stories. How people would welcome you and want to sit with you for hours and discuss your travels, your politics and views on life. They would then discuss and share their tales as well. Now it has been ingrained in my mind as a future destination.

We left for Kampala, Uganda early the next morning with Kampala Coach. The scheduled travel time...27 hours! Can you believe it? I would be in a speeding tin box for over a day. This is what its all about. The bus stopped at a service station for food and we were able to relieve ourselves there or on the side of the road, which is the norm. Men to one side and women to the other.

We crossed through the Kenyan border with ease, although with a little confusion. Let me lay out the game plan: The bus pulls up to the border. The conductor of the bus (he checks tickets and assists the driver) tells everyone to get off the bus and go to customs. He says, "10 minutes!" So we hop off the bus and go to the customs counter. We are directed to fill out a form, but it says "Tanzania." Aren't we in Kenya? This is only the departure form for Tanzania. We fill it out, get a stamp and walk across the border through two gates. Finally on the Kenyan side we pay for our Visas, $20 transit, and make our way back on the bus. And if you want to change your money, there are always a handful of locals at your disposal. Fairly simple after you know what to expect.

We continued on our leg through Kenya and into Nairobi. From what I was told, Nairobi looked like a lively metropolis. Bright lights and tall buildings. Too bad I was asleep. We unloaded and picked up some passengers before making our way into Uganda.

We crossed the Ugandan border at sunrise. By 1100 we were in Kampala. Tired, hungry and glad to still be alive.

We stayed at a backpackers hostel in Kampala. Nice place, but expensive food compared to local meals. I explored the city that evening and even managed to fend off a pickpocket after leaving the ATM. We had planned to go on a 2-day white water rafting trip the next day, but half of the group we were going with cancelled. So instead, 1 day.

We rafted with Adrift, based out of Jinja. They picked us up early the next day and we headed to some hotels to pick up other rafters.

At the Adrift camp we met our team of rafters and our guides. Our guide, Josh was Canadian and works here for 6 months to raft. Our raft included three Italian brothers on holiday. Great guys.

The trip lasted all day, lunch to break up the day, and included some wicked rafting at the source of the Nile. Class 3, 4 and 5 rapids enough to scare the shit out of you. Even a 15 foot waterfall. Backwards! An awesome time.

We spent a total of 5 days in Kampala exploring the city and visiting the Kasubi Tombs of the Buganda People, recognized as a World Heritage Site.

From Kampala we would head to Lake Bunyoni near the Rwandan border for a few nights before making our way to Kigali, Rwanda.

Up and Up

I finally had the chance to climb to the top of the Uluguru Mountains. Every day I've been looking up wondering what the view is like from there.

Close to the beginning of the project, we all attempted to hike up to an abandoned weekend retreat in the Uluguru Mountains known as Morningside. Morningside lies halfway from the top at 1000m metres. We made it close, but ran out of water forcing us to turn around. We were all tired and headed back down to town.

This time, I was joined by Katherine, who was a volunteer with YCI in Zanzibar, her boyfriend Joel, Habibu, Sebi and Frankie. Habibu and Frankie both help out at the Kilakala Youth Centre. Both have been to the top before and could guide us safely.

We met up just outside town at 0700 with plenty of water, fruits and bread to keep us going throughout the day. I wasn't going to risk my chance getting to the top. The day was overcast and not as hot as usual.

The beginning of the hike takes you through farmland and small villages. Most of the farmland, which once was dense forest, are crops of maize, cassava and beans. Following the path up through the villages you notice how red the soil is. Over time, the soil has eroded exposing tree roots and making some parts of the trail tricky to navigate. That said, we were continually passed by local villagers wearing flip-flops carrying water or other heavy goods on their heads.

Further up, the crops change to bananas, peas, beans, cabbage and onions. The mountainside has been clear cut of trees and cut into a large set of stairs allowing for cultivation. More than two-thirds of the mountain's forest have been replaced with farmland.

We reached Morningside after 4 hours. The last part of the trail up to Morningside had many beautiful flowers and with it butterflies. The view back through the mountains overlooking Morogoro is amazing. We had lunch here and bought some carrots and a "permit" to climb the mountain.

Katherine, Joel and Sebi headed back down while the rest of us would trek on to the top of Bondwe Peak. After leaving Morningside, we took a steep path through more farmland using all four limbs before reaching an abandoned guard post an hour later. We signed our names on the wall inside along with those of previous visitors. Just past the guard post is where the real forest begins. Along both slopes, eucalyptus trees are planted to mark the edge of the forest reserve. However, the demand for farmland, fuel wood and building materials means that the boundaries are often ignored.

Once in the forest, I imagined I was in the Jungle Book. Huge trees, thick bush and ferns everywhere. Butterflies fluttering past me, monkeys chatting and birds calling with songs made it surreal. The hike was not easy by any means, but walking through this enchanted wilderness was breathtaking.

And even in such a beautiful place, with limited means of access, signs of humans are easily found. Garbage, especially plastic bottles, are left on the ground and not packed out. Garbage in town is handled in much the same way. Just toss it. Even though I made it a point to pick up what I could, Habibu didn't think twice about chucking his plastic waste into the forest. I tried to question him and encourage him to pack it out, but when it happened again I gave up.

Nearing the top and three hours later, the path widens and opens up to a beautiful vista at the peak, Bondwe peak. On top, you can see everything. Even though it was overcast, we could still see far enough to enjoy our accomplishment. We watched clouds pass us as they pushed their way over the mountain.

Bondwe peak is home to a communication tower feeding signals for television, radio and telephone. Two staff were present and showed us around the inside of the control room. Apparently they stay for one week and are then relieved by two new staff who also have to trek up the mountain.

We took a rest and I changed by shirt. It was soaked. It could have been pulled straight out of the wash. I wrung out my shirt and I swear, no joke, no exaggeration, I was able to wring out enough sweat to fill a pint glass half full.

For a snack, banana spread on bread and then a nap.

After a half hour on top we headed back down. First out of the forest and then back down through farmland and into town. My legs were tired and I have never been so excited for rice and beans.

Chamwino Gets a New Coat

This morning Carla, Lindsey, Lonny and I headed to Chamwino to continue our programming we started back in October. Lonny ran his computer classes with the help of Kilakala local Barisa which had his sign up sheet filled within minutes, while Carla and I held an English class in the beautiful new school, fresh paint and all.

This is going to be a great asset to the next phase of volunteers, the community and the local youth.

Debrief in Dar

Phase 14 has come to an end. Time to go. At least for most of us.

We spent our debrief in Dar Es Salaam to discuss successes, failures and future goals. Jessica and Lindsey ended our two month phase with great activities. Not to mention we spent those hours debriefing in a real Subway restaurant.

We stayed at the local Y.W.C.A. arriving on Sunday afternoon. After arriving we strolled the streets, sipped coffee and browsed a local bookstore. That evening we went out to the Slipway where you can eat almost any type of food. Everything from pizza to sushi to curry. It felt like a lively city with people, restaurants, bars, a mall and entertainment.

The next morning we saw off Julia who was taking a bus to Moshi. She is planning to climb Mount Kilimanjaro and will, no doubt, have great stories to tell. It was sad to see her go not knowing when I'll see her again.

So the entire day was spent with the foursome left and we wandered around Dar, checked out a local art museum, the National Museum and played checkers with local fisherman. The National Museum displayed the history of the now Republic of Tanzania. It contained local artifacts, natural sciences and the history of rulers and slavery through the times.

After the museum we walked down to the Ocean in search of food. We were looking for rice and beans, but instead found a small stand selling mishkaki, basically grilled skewered meat. Its delicious. We only had a few skewered, but the "chef" was a wonderfully intelligent man. He spoke fluent English and French. We've never met a local like this before. He sat with us and his conversations were entertaining.

After mishkaki, we followed the beach down to where fisherman were cleaning their boats and enjoying each others company. We were still looking for rice and beans and this is where we found it. A group of women were selling the dish to the local fisherman. We couldn't resist. We asked, we were served, we eat on the floor, we swallowed whole mouthfuls and we paid 800TSH for a bowl of the gold. We definitely got a few laughs, but damn worth it. Having been in Morogoro and speaking Swahili was a plus. Afterwards Lonny and I played checkers with the local fisherman who used water bottle caps as checker pieces. I played first. Dark blue versus light blue. I lost. Lonny played. He lost. We left.That evening, back at the YWCA we had to take the rest of the Zanzibar team and our Katie to the airport. We all piled into a rented daladala and headed out. We saw Katie off, smiling and waving, laughing when she walked through the metal detector and it went off and feeling a little sad. Another one gone. Now, only the three amigos are left standing together heading back to Morogoro, Lonny, Carla and me.

Tick Tock

These past few days have been busy with composing final reports and making sure to get enough time in with everyone we met before heading back home. The past 8 weeks have been the fastest of my life. In the time those weeks have flashed by I made new friends, traveled to beautiful places and learned more about myself and the world around me.

Last minute projects are finally coming together and I hope to have them finished before I leave. Last week Lonny and I finished writing CVs in our boys club and rumour has it that one member already has a job offer. Carla and I run an English class out of the youth centre and this phase saw 4 new women join. They have shown up regularly over the past month showing their commitment to learn. That in turn motivates us to provide the most practical and beneficial lessons with the intention of bringing them back class after class. Consistent attendance can measure success.

Lonny and I live with a generous and loving host family. We wanted to thank them and show them that their hospitality was greatly appreciated. We picked up some school books for Ash and Robert and made a photo collage for the family that is now hanging in the living room. No doubt I will miss them.

Not only am I leaving my friends in Tanzania, but also my colleagues with whom I've made life-long friendships with. They have given me support, provided moments of uncontrollable laughter and challenged me to be who I am. They will be the only ones who can truly appreciate these stories and tie them to a moment in their life.

I do miss home and all the amenities that come with it. Using a bucket to shower is fine, its the Wiener Schnitzel and potato salad I miss the most.

The Island of Zanzibar

We finally decided to make a getaway to Zanzibar for the weekend.

We left early Friday morning at 0600 to catch the first bus out of Morogoro headed to Dar Es Salaam. At the bus station we managed to find a bus half full and only had to wait 15 or 20 minutes before leaving just after 0700.

In Dar we took a 20 minute cab ride to the harbour. There were so many cab drivers looking for customers. The starting price was 20,000Tsh! We were told no more than 10,000Tsh so we laughed and waited for a driver to come down to the fair price. We loaded the cab, with harassment and left the bus station. We arrived at the harbour at 0930.

At the harbour we had to buy our tickets for the ferry. There are many boats and everyone wants to sell to you. We went inside one ticket office and handed over our passports for the sales rep to copy our names. Before leaving, Jess and Linds told us that fares would be around 35-40,000Tsh. The price we given was 60,000Tsh. So we grabbed our passports and walked out of the office. Apparently, we needed residence permits to buy the tickets at the lower price. A few minutes later the same sales rep approaches us and tells us that his manager has found us a solution. We meet with his manager who apparently was able to "find" seats for us for 40,000Tsh and even "upgraded" us to first class for "free."

The ferry was double hulled like a "cat" and took about 2 hours to cross to Zanzibar. The ferry itself was in good shape and we had no problems crossing. We even meet 4 Norwegian girls spending 5 weeks working at the hospital in Zanzibar.

Once we reached the island we were required to show our passports again and fill in immigration paperwork. Although Zanzibar and Tanzania now make up the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still acts as though it were separate. My passport now has one more stamp.

The buildings in Stonetown are old and they make up a labyrinth throughout the town. Getting to our Inn with the help of the Zanzi volunteers proved helpful. We definitely would have lost our way. After settling into our rooms we headed out to see the nightlife in Stonetown.

We made our way through the town and in and out of markets. It is a totally different feel than Morogoro, tourists everywhere. Be prepared to be offered all sorts of T-shirts and CDs. In a small street we found stands laden with fish and meat. All was ready to be grilled in front of you. There was even a man grilling pizzas. It was delicious.

We spent Saturday in Page, and hour by daladala, at a quiet beach enjoying the rolling surf and mesmerizing colours of the Indian Ocean. The water salty and warm.

That evening we were invited to a feast at the volunteers host family house. There were 14 of us in total and the food was amazing. There was Pilau (rice and potatoes with spices), sugar cane noodles, fresh vegetables, fresh bread and other amazing foods that I don't know the name to.

Sunday was one of the greatest days. We booked a trip with Safari Blue, a trip over the Indian Ocean. We took a taxi down to Fumba where the trip left from. We boarded into wooden sailboats known as Dhows. These were rigged with an outboard motor that would get us to the sandbar for the first leg of the trip. On the way to the sandbar we saw 5 dolphins.

After making it to the sandbar, we grabbed some fresh pineapple and our snorkeling gear before heading out to snorkel. Back on the boat, we travelled around an island to a wonderful reef with many fish. We geared up and jumped into the water snorkeling with all sorts of fish. It was a great experience.

Later we headed into a mangrove lagoon to relax and swim for a bit.

After the lagoon we went to a larger island where we were treated to traditional music and dance along with some amazing seafood; local fish, lobster, rice, coconut tomato sauce and a sample of local fruit.

We spent the rest of the afternoon eating, exploring and swimming in the ocean.

When we were ready to leave we boarded our dhow, raised the sail, and skimmed our way back to mainland in the wind.

The day ended at a fantastic Italian restaurant with pasta and pizza.

Sumaye Secondary School Performance

Today we gave a presentation at Sumaye Secondary School with the help of the drama group and Marko.

The drama group preformed short comedies with HIV/AIDS messages that were well received by the youth.

Other activities included "Crossing the Bridge", "True and False", "Women and HIV", "HIV Spread and Condom Use" and a question and answer period.

The presentation lasted 2 hours and provided excellent information for the 250 youth.

A Sign?

The last two days have been ones of shock.

Yesterday I was doing some work on a laptop in my room. We have a power bar in the room that allows for all plug configurations because the laptop has a North American plug. Plugs here are the same as the UK. I unpacked the laptop and the power adaptor for the laptop. While the adaptor wasn't connected to the laptop I plugged it into the live power bar. Then I grabbed the other end that plugs into the laptop.

ZZZZZZZZZZAP!!! "WOAH!"

My right arm flew into the air and I couldn't control it. My entire right side from my shoulders to my hips tingled with a surge of electricity. Definitely a new experience.

I finished my work on the laptop and closed the computer.

ZZZZZZZZZZAP!!! "Wwwhat the hell!"

Again. This time with less surprise, but with just as much tingling.

Later that day I came home during the hottest part of the day to take nap. It gets warm under a tin roof so I decided to turn on the fan. The fan has a European plug. It is also plugged into the power bar. This time no shock.

A few minutes later I can smell smoke and look at the clock. It's around lunch time and I figured it was Mama cooking lunch. This time it wasn't food smoking. I turned to look at the fan. The fan had overheated and burst into flames. I grabbed the fan, pulled out the plug and run it outside. Walking back to the room I can see a haze of smoke.

What a day. Bad luck or was my life in jeopardy?

I Have a Name

Walking into town on most if not every day will spark conversation.

The children in the Kilakala, or at least near the house where I live, will greet me by name and ask where I am going. Some will greet me with "Shikamoo", a greeting out of respect, and I will answer "Marahaba", meaning "I thank you for your respect." However, as soon as I walk out any further things change.

People are always outside on their porches or in front of their houses making mats, selling vegetables or charcoal. The older children attending classes at school, but the younger kids are staring at me walking past them. And the greetings I or any other volunteer get isn't "Shikamoo", but "Mzungu!", "White Person!". I don't believe it be hurtful or disrespectful, but just a word that has been used to describe foreigners. So I take it in stride with a smile. And another smile and another because this doesn't just happen once or twice, but everyday. So you can imagine me walking down the same street passing those same four, five and six-year-olds children and getting bombarded with "Mzungu!" Things changed today. The first "Mzungu!" I hear walking into town came from the same kids I saw yesterday. So I walk over to their porch where the kids are sitting along with a few Mamas and maybe a Bibi (grandmother), and I greet the elders, "Shikamoo."

Then I look into the little children's eyes and ask, "Jina lako nani?", "What is your name?"

"Nema," said the little girl.

"Mimi, naitwa Quinten. Sawa?" "Me, my name is Quinten. OK?"

No Response. So I repeat my name hoping they get the point and then ask how things are, "Mambo vipi?" To which all the kids respond, "Poa!", "Cool". Two down, and many more to go.

I leave that house and turn down the road towards the market.

"Mzungu!" Damn it!

The main road into town is paved and busy with cars, trucks, bicycles and motorcycles of which half probably don't have a driver's license and those that do have one need more practice behind the wheel. Instead I take the back road into town.

This quieter road passes by an old cemetery marked with wooden crosses, each boxed in with a rectangular cement border. Next to the cemetery is the local soccer field. The posts are coconut tree trunks and the crossbars made of bamboo, nailed to each wooden post.

Leaving the soccer field behind, I cross a cement bridge over a small river and into the Kilakala market. There are shops selling bananas, coconuts, potatoes and other vegetables. Shops with fried whole fish, shops with hanging chunks of meat in the doorway and even a small music shop with CDs. There are bars to sit and have a cold beer or soda.

Even here the soft drink giants have a market. Coco-Cola and Pepsi ads are everywhere. Where ever a free space is available I only see Tanzanian Telecom ads. These are also the only ads on TV and I have quickly memorized their tag lines.

"Zain. A Wonderful World."
"Vodacom. Pajoma Daima."
"Tigo. Express Yourself!"

Still walking along the dirt road, I pass through the market and behind the local prison. Prisoners in orange jumpsuits are busy sweeping the earth and gathering garbage under the "watchful eye" of the guards busy playing a game of guards. A fence with holes separates inmates from the "Mzungu."

Still further I pass by a school for the hearing impaired. I usually see them playing soccer in the adjacent field in the afternoon and was invited to join in a game yesterday.

Past the school for the hearing impaired is a primary government school. During the morning many people sell candies, nuts and home-made freezies along this road. It shouldn't be surprising that school children in their blue and white school uniforms form swarms around the vendors like bees around a hive.

Hoping that all the kids are distracted, I take my chance walking through the swarm to get to town. Everything goes smoothly.

"Good morning."

"Good morning," I reply.

No matter what time of day, its always "Good morning." Must come from greeting the teacher at school. What follows is the only other English they know, "How are you?" Now imagine hundreds of school children repeatedly asking how I'm doing. By the time the last kid asks me I'm not doing so well anymore. The same happens back in Kilakala. Children using the only English they know.

After the sea of blue and white I walk past not one, but two coffin makers. Eerie to say the least. Although better here than right next to the cemetery.

Before town is the Tanzanian Ministry of Finance and the courthouse.

I make it into town in under 30 minutes and the mountains are always a beautiful backdrop.

Let's hope that the walk back home is just as exciting! Even though the anti-malarial "Apo-Mefloquine" is providing enough excitement in my dreams already.

A look into Life at "Home"

Yanga Vs Morogoro Police

This Saturday we watched a local soccer game at Jamhuri Stadium. The match featured one of the top teams in Tanzania, Yanga, from Dar Es Salaam.

Entrance was 3,000Tsh and it was busy. Their were vendors selling sugar cane, ice cream and of course, cold water.

Some calls were questionable, but with so many police around with batons, no one put up too much of a fight. The match ended 0-0.

Ushujaa kwa Uhai

This week we held our first "Ushujaa kwa Uhai" in Chamwino. Our audience was estimated at 500. Definitley a huge turnout.We set up a tent and hired a local DJ and invited local youth to show off their talent. Local artists were showcased to kick off afternoon. Some performances included the local youth singing, dancing and rapping.The local Morogoro school's Girls' Club was invited to preform a traditional dance with drummers.

The Spin Off

Baba and I having a soccer ball spin off.

New Program in Chamwino

Youth Challenge International partners with local organizations with similar missions and values. In Morogoro we work together with Faraja Trust Fund. Faraja is resposible for building the community centres and schools where our programs take place.

This month we started a new program in Chamwino. Chamwino is in the outskirts of town and sometimes referred to as the "slums". The school is still under construction, but there are four walls and a roof, and the locals are excited to start participating. They are so excited that we started programming sooner than expected. Our first classes started 3 weeks ago and we have been returning every week. We are now up to 2 days per week. The classes include basic computer skills, english lessons, HIV/AIDS information, condom demonstrations, gender issues and much more. So far the turnout has been overwhelming and the ratio of female to male participants better than expected.

The school is slowly nearing completion. Knowing that we have this much interest even without a finished school is very exciting.

We will be hosting the first "Ushujaa kwa Uhai" (Courage for Life) talent night in Chamwino this Friday, October 31st with or without pumpkins.