Up and Up

I finally had the chance to climb to the top of the Uluguru Mountains. Every day I've been looking up wondering what the view is like from there.

Close to the beginning of the project, we all attempted to hike up to an abandoned weekend retreat in the Uluguru Mountains known as Morningside. Morningside lies halfway from the top at 1000m metres. We made it close, but ran out of water forcing us to turn around. We were all tired and headed back down to town.

This time, I was joined by Katherine, who was a volunteer with YCI in Zanzibar, her boyfriend Joel, Habibu, Sebi and Frankie. Habibu and Frankie both help out at the Kilakala Youth Centre. Both have been to the top before and could guide us safely.

We met up just outside town at 0700 with plenty of water, fruits and bread to keep us going throughout the day. I wasn't going to risk my chance getting to the top. The day was overcast and not as hot as usual.

The beginning of the hike takes you through farmland and small villages. Most of the farmland, which once was dense forest, are crops of maize, cassava and beans. Following the path up through the villages you notice how red the soil is. Over time, the soil has eroded exposing tree roots and making some parts of the trail tricky to navigate. That said, we were continually passed by local villagers wearing flip-flops carrying water or other heavy goods on their heads.

Further up, the crops change to bananas, peas, beans, cabbage and onions. The mountainside has been clear cut of trees and cut into a large set of stairs allowing for cultivation. More than two-thirds of the mountain's forest have been replaced with farmland.

We reached Morningside after 4 hours. The last part of the trail up to Morningside had many beautiful flowers and with it butterflies. The view back through the mountains overlooking Morogoro is amazing. We had lunch here and bought some carrots and a "permit" to climb the mountain.

Katherine, Joel and Sebi headed back down while the rest of us would trek on to the top of Bondwe Peak. After leaving Morningside, we took a steep path through more farmland using all four limbs before reaching an abandoned guard post an hour later. We signed our names on the wall inside along with those of previous visitors. Just past the guard post is where the real forest begins. Along both slopes, eucalyptus trees are planted to mark the edge of the forest reserve. However, the demand for farmland, fuel wood and building materials means that the boundaries are often ignored.

Once in the forest, I imagined I was in the Jungle Book. Huge trees, thick bush and ferns everywhere. Butterflies fluttering past me, monkeys chatting and birds calling with songs made it surreal. The hike was not easy by any means, but walking through this enchanted wilderness was breathtaking.

And even in such a beautiful place, with limited means of access, signs of humans are easily found. Garbage, especially plastic bottles, are left on the ground and not packed out. Garbage in town is handled in much the same way. Just toss it. Even though I made it a point to pick up what I could, Habibu didn't think twice about chucking his plastic waste into the forest. I tried to question him and encourage him to pack it out, but when it happened again I gave up.

Nearing the top and three hours later, the path widens and opens up to a beautiful vista at the peak, Bondwe peak. On top, you can see everything. Even though it was overcast, we could still see far enough to enjoy our accomplishment. We watched clouds pass us as they pushed their way over the mountain.

Bondwe peak is home to a communication tower feeding signals for television, radio and telephone. Two staff were present and showed us around the inside of the control room. Apparently they stay for one week and are then relieved by two new staff who also have to trek up the mountain.

We took a rest and I changed by shirt. It was soaked. It could have been pulled straight out of the wash. I wrung out my shirt and I swear, no joke, no exaggeration, I was able to wring out enough sweat to fill a pint glass half full.

For a snack, banana spread on bread and then a nap.

After a half hour on top we headed back down. First out of the forest and then back down through farmland and into town. My legs were tired and I have never been so excited for rice and beans.