Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Shark Bait

Cape Town is wonderful. The waterfront is built up and new looking with a vast selection of restaurants and bars. Easy to spend money. Trapped again.

Most visitors to Cape Town will notice the shanty townships that line the highway into the city. Nothing nice to look at or even debate with the locals. Simple houses, actually shacks with tin roofs and a single power line to a central transformer in the middle. Looks like the skeleton of a circus big top.

Our dorm at The Backpack has eight beds, one of which hosts a new friend from the UK. Michael is from England and just finished his travels in Australia and will leave on an overlander tour up to Kenya. With the city leaving our pockets feeling lighter than when we first arrived we decided to head out on the open ocean for some diving with the infamous White Shark. You can add "Great" to the title for glitz and glamour.

The day started at 0530 with a pickup and then a 2 hour drive to Gansbaai. Michael had wanted to pick up some motion sickness tablets and gladly took an offer from another diver when she offered a tablet.

At Gansbaai we met the rest of the crazies who paid money to swim with these fish. A short drive from Gansbaai to the harbour we boarded the vessel, packed with 20 people, and set out over the choppy seas. Choppy seas...Oh boy, my night before with the Norwegians wasn't too bright.

Near the infamous Shark Alley and seal colony we set anchor. Up and down. The crew began chumming and luring in the sharks. No guarantee of seeing anything as it was low in the season. With a slick of fish oil trailing the boat and fish heads tied to a buoy how could a shark resist?

Within about 30 minutes we caught a glimpse of the first White Shark. Seconds later the cage was in the water, wet suits were stretched over stomachs and we were in the cage. With 5 at a time in the cage, the crew would lure the shark with the fish heads towards the cage and just as it approached you would take a breath and go under into the 13C water. Up and down. The sharks would swim past the cage and sometimes going for a bite at the bait. I had a great view, face to face, or more like face to jaws, teeth, death of one shark. Adrenaline and excitement left me bewildered. Was it real?

We would trade places in the cage. Up and down. Taking a break from the cold water and battering waves. We saw three sharks that day with the largest measuring 2.5 metres.

After 3 hours at sea with everyone thrilled at their experience, we raised anchor, the boat went down and my lunch came up.

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